‘What’s interesting about fashion is interpretation’ said Sarah Jessica Parker at the 2022 Met Gala. This year’s Met was a ‘part two’ to last year’s, both celebrating the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s ‘In America: An Anthology of Fashion’ exhibition. Whilst last year’s theme was ‘America,’ the 2022 theme was ‘Gilded Glamour.’ Celebrities like Blake Lively and Bella Hadid came donned in various designers; whilst some looks fit the theme perfectly, others not so much.
‘Gilded Glamour’ refers to the Gilded Age, a time in American history when society was blooming and, due to industrialisation, the wealthy had money to burn. The Gilded Age is often connected to New York City specifically, where high society would throw ostentatious parties. Wealthy women would wear extravagant outfits; highly embellished outfits, alongside inconvenient undergarments like bustles, were a sign of the woman’s riches. The bustle in particular was popular at this time, a large padded piece placed on a woman’s backside.
However, ‘Gilded Glamour’ does not have to mean Gilded Age-fashion inspired. The etymology of ‘gilded’ refers to 'covered in gold' or 'wealth', and many celebrities used this interpretation instead. Other celebrities, like Blake Lively, honoured the history of the Gilded Age differently and wore outfits inspired by New York City. The issue with the Met Gala is that oftentimes, celebrities wear gorgeous outfits, but they have no thematic correlation. So, in our examination of the 2022 Met Gala’s best looks, Liberty Belle will analyse celebrities’ looks in regard to the night’s theme.
The Met Gala was off to a great start when Blake Lively arrived last night, wearing an Atelier Versace gown inspired by New York City. She arrived in a gold gown, with a large bow at the back, suggesting the Gilded Age’s silhouette. Then, as she arrived on the Met steps, the bow was unravelled to reveal a blue train. Lively said that the gown was inspired by three icons of New York City: the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, and Grand Central Station. In fact, the change from gold to blue dress was a symbol of the Statue of Liberty’s oxidisation. I think that Blake Lively’s gown was an amazing interpretation of the theme, showing that Met Gala outfits don’t have to be historically accurate to fit. The theme, as SJP said, can and should be interpreted by designers.
Next, we have Carrie Bradshaw herself, Sarah Jessica Parker. Her Christopher John Rogers look took inspiration from Elizabeth Hobbs Heckley, who was the first female Black fashion designer working at the White House. SJP’s gown is clearly reminiscent of Gilded Age fashion, and I love the context behind this choice. In fact, Rogers told Vogue, ‘The idea was to highlight the dichotomy between the extravagant, over-the-top proportions of the time period, and the disparity that was happening in America at the time.’ The ‘In America’ exhibit explores Black fashion designers forgotten by history, and I think it is so important that they are finally being appreciated now for their artistry.
When the theme was announced, I was anticipating some Vivienne Westwood looks, and SZA’s pink Vivienne Westwood gown did not disappoint. The gown’s fabric was draped to create the Gilded Age silhouette, whilst remaining modern. This was paired with a black hat and opera gloves, both reminiscent of accessories popular during the time. The gown was also draped higher on one leg to reveal black thigh-high-boots, tying the black accessories to the hot pink gown. Vivienne Westwood is famous for referencing historical fashion in her work and elevating it with a modern twist, and SZA’s outfit executed this perfectly.
There were other looks that referenced the Gilded Age, however with more artistic license. Bella Hadid wore a Burberry ensemble — a black corset, with opera gloves, lace stockings, and a black skirt draped around her waist. My favourite part of Hadid’s outfit is her hair, a clear reference to updos of the time. Bella Hadid’s look gave reference to the Gilded Age whilst having creative liberty.
Other celebrities, like Billie Eilish and Dove Cameron, expressed an edgier take on the theme. Eilish’s Gucci look is a clear reference to Gilded Age fashion, which she pulled off flawlessly, whilst incorporating her personal style. Dove Cameron’s Iris van Herpen dress, my personal favourite look of the evening, does not immediately invoke ‘Gilded Glamour,’ however that’s what I love about it. Her arm pieces are curved, and from the side, create the silhouette of a bustle. The white dress resembles the undergarments of early 1900 dresses, and Dove Cameron herself said that the dress was an ‘alien’ take on ‘Gilded Glamour.’
We cannot talk about the Met Gala without discussing Kim Kardashian’s Marilyn Monroe dress. For weeks, it’s been rumoured that she was going to wear Monroe’s ‘Happy Birthday, Mr President’ look — and that’s exactly what she arrived in. Although the Monroe dress doesn’t fit the theme, I think the dress is a nice continuation of Kim’s look from the previous Met Gala. In 2021, Kim wore a black outfit covering her head-to-toe. It was a commentary on her impact on American fashion because despite her being covered, the silhouette was obviously Kim Kardashian. Wearing Monroe’s dress creates the idea that Kim Kardashian is our age’s Marilyn Monroe, a celebrated pop culture icon.
There were some looks that suggested the bustle silhouette, however not as effectively as Dove Cameron or SZA. Olivia Rodrigo wore a sparkling lilac Versace dress, and the slight ruching on the back was supposed to reference the bustle, however, the minimalism made it less effective. (Which is personally a shame, because the dress is amazing.) Kendall Jenner and Gwen Stefani also wore massive skirts to resemble the bustle; personally, I liked Kendall Jenner’s, especially since the skirt’s fabric is so similar to fabrics from the Gilded Age, but the look could have been more on-theme. But that is something we should appreciate about the Met Gala — every look is not just a costume piece, but a designer’s specific interpretation of a theme.
Edited by Miette Dsouza
Commentaires